There is a particular kind of freedom that begins the moment the city thins out behind you. The high-rises give way to low villages, the villages to rice fields, and the fields to hills that hold the light differently than any skyline ever could. We left Guangzhou on a Friday evening with no itinerary, one small bag each, and a quiet resolve to do less — and to wear things that could keep up with that decision. The bag was small on purpose. The plan was small on purpose. What...
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